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Post by Trey Lawler on Nov 2, 2005 22:51:18 GMT -5
Fire at will
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andy
New Member
Posts: 5
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Post by andy on Nov 21, 2005 9:38:45 GMT -5
First shot fired ;D
andy aka SB nut
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Post by panman on Feb 25, 2006 14:15:01 GMT -5
Why isn"t everyone shooting a Ross.lol.pan.
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Post by Trey Lawler on Feb 26, 2006 2:55:09 GMT -5
Why isn"t everyone shooting a Ross.lol.pan. Good question! Give-em time.
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grim
New Member
Posts: 2
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Post by grim on Jun 16, 2006 13:04:23 GMT -5
PBLAWLER,I have a question about centershot on 334 and 337, you seem to be the best in tuning Ross as well as others. Both bows set at 3/4 centershot and bulletholes right away, at rest the arrows point to the left, is it right? Had to retune cuz I had centershot at 11/16, thought it was a good hole and @ 80 yards, groups 5" to right, @ 40 2" and at 20 right on. And if the centershot was out, would that throw groups out the further out the arrow went, besides canting? My scope is leveled to the bow and I watch to make sure I am level at full draw.Any advice would be greatly appreciated, Thanks!
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Post by Trey Lawler on Jun 16, 2006 21:41:34 GMT -5
PBLAWLER,I have a question about centershot on 334 and 337, you seem to be the best in tuning Ross as well as others. Both bows set at 3/4 centershot and bulletholes right away, at rest the arrows point to the left, is it right? Had to retune cuz I had centershot at 11/16, thought it was a good hole and @ 80 yards, groups 5" to right, @ 40 2" and at 20 right on. And if the centershot was out, would that throw groups out the further out the arrow went, besides canting? My scope is leveled to the bow and I watch to make sure I am level at full draw.Any advice would be greatly appreciated, Thanks! What you explained is perfectly correct, the rest is too far left so the arrow kicks left and causes broadheads to profile to the right, i.e. right impacting groups. You can twist the left yoke to move the string to the left or move the rest to the right. Check the ATA on both sides. As long as the arrow shelf side is not more than 1/16" shorter you can twist the left yoke two twists at a time while tuning to correct for left tear.
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grim
New Member
Posts: 2
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Post by grim on Jun 17, 2006 1:58:22 GMT -5
Trey, just got done working on both bows and they tuned in between 5/8 and 11/16. The problem I realized was in my grip, obviousley I was torkin enough to get a bullet at 3/4, but after I set the rest between those numbers and went to a low wrist grip, bullet hole after bullet hole. Guess I was just use ti the way I was gripping my Mathews,which I could never get a low wrist grip with my factory grip- to uncomfortable. Thanks very much for your help,you Da man!
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Post by Trey Lawler on Jun 17, 2006 11:40:00 GMT -5
Trey, just got done working on both bows and they tuned in between 5/8 and 11/16. The problem I realized was in my grip, obviousley I was torkin enough to get a bullet at 3/4, but after I set the rest between those numbers and went to a low wrist grip, bullet hole after bullet hole. Guess I was just use ti the way I was gripping my Mathews,which I could never get a low wrist grip with my factory grip- to uncomfortable. Thanks very much for your help,you Da man! Glad you got it worked out. Yeah the Ross likes a low wrist grip, which I prefer and find to be the most consistent because you can lock your wrist into the same spot everytime.
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Post by fuzzygrub on Jun 29, 2006 3:11:43 GMT -5
I have been looking at Ross Bows at my dealer and I am really impressed. I have a TrykonXL and a allegiance. I like them but they just don't tickle my fancy if you know what I mean. My Hoyt shoots good but the draw is terrible and it has a god awful twang that I can not get rid of. My allegiance is really fast, a little loud and I am just not sold on the binary cam. It shoots OK but I keep looking at the nasty cam lean and that just scares me! I had a switchback and could not get used to the grip. I guess I am just to picky! Well to get to my question, I was wondering what kind of speeds are you getting from the 334. I would also like to know what drop away rest you would recommend for the Ross? I am so Impressed with the craftsmanship of the Ross I believe I might give one a try. Any info will be greatly appreciated!
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Post by eagle48 on Jun 29, 2006 9:05:52 GMT -5
Well, for the speed, let us know what draw length, poundage, and arrow weight you shoot and we can give you a rough estimate. As for dropaways, go with the Trophy Ridge Drop Zone. We use those on all of our bows, and most folks that leave the shop with a Ross have one on the bow.
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Post by fuzzygrub on Jun 29, 2006 11:41:03 GMT -5
I have a 29'' Draw shoot 70#'s and shoot either axis340's or GT75/95's. I believe the arrow weight is around 410 to 415 grains.
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Post by eagle48 on Jun 29, 2006 11:51:04 GMT -5
Ok, with those specs you should see arrow speeds of around 270-275 fps which is plenty fast IMO. My CR337 with a 29.5" draw and 70# pull shots 375 grain arrows at 280-282 fps which is all I want since I use my setup for 3D tournaments and hunting.
With a few twists in the cable to up poundage you could be upwards of 280 fps or more. Let us know if you've got any other questions
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Post by fuzzygrub on Sept 11, 2006 13:07:29 GMT -5
Had a question about arrow fletching. I read Terry's article about the Vane test. I am going to try some 3'' Vanetec Vmax's. I was wondering what way to fletch them? I currently use straight fletch with some offset. Does anyone use right helical with this short of Vane or does it even matter? Any feedback will be appreciated!
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Post by eagle48 on Sept 13, 2006 20:59:21 GMT -5
Right Helical is fine, but we usually just use offset. You can pretty much do the same thing with smaller vanes as you do with larger vanes as far as types of vane orientations and degrees of offset.
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Post by Trey Lawler on Nov 19, 2006 20:48:31 GMT -5
I just purchased a Ross 331 - awesome bow. The standard threaded holes in the riser for attaching the sight seem very tight. I am hoping that they are just tight from the camo coating but I'm a little reluctant to just screw the bolts in because I dont want to ruin the threads and there isnt much of the riser around the holes with the severe cut-outs. Is it common for these holes to be tight? Thats not uncommon, it is due to the camo dip. Start the screw by hand then tighten it with and allen prior to installing the sight. That is common with dipped bows.
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